This removes the need for running `git update-server-info` on the
repositories regularly (or on update), possibly speeds up clones (at
least, git clone can now show progress information), and almost
certainly improves reliability on a pull concurrent with a push to the
same repository (the git daemon can respect lock files, nginx can’t).
(We can also probably remove /srv/git from front-nginx, but I’ll do that
in a separate change.)